Ayurveda believes in the mantra 'true beauty comes from within.' Ayurvedic principles recommend focusing on both internal and external well-being to attain healthy, radiant skin. This means paying close attention to the whole body's wellness in terms of a healthy diet, better immune system, sleep, and daily routine based on your dosha.
Besides balancing the doshas or vital forces, Ayurveda also recommends the localized use of serums and oils. However, they are constitutionally different, and their intrinsic properties affect doshas. In this article, let's understand Ayurvedic oils and serums, their differences, and recommendations based on your skin type.
Taila, derived from the Sanskrit word, translates to oil and is an ayurvedic formulation of either a single oil or a mixture of oils. Potent herbs offer additional benefits based on the twacha (skin) and dosha type. These effectively pass through the skin's lipid layer, producing a youthful glow. Ayurvedic skincare practices recommend using oil extracts to nourish the skin deep into the tissues.
On the other hand, serums are lightweight, concentrated formulas that usually come with active ingredients. They usually contain significant amounts of actives, vitamins, peptides, and acids that work wonders on the hair and skin. Or they may be oil based with all-natural ingredients. Serums are known to effectively target problems such as acne, dark spots, etc.
Some of the most common benefits of Ayurvedic oils are:
Helps relieve stress
As per a study, the practice of
Abhyanga, or the classic Ayurvedic self-massage, helps reduce stress while relieving the body of
amas or toxins. Regular use of oils can also address a range of medical conditions, such as joint pain and arthritis.
Helps skin look moisturized and nourished
Your skin typically secretes oil and keeps it nourished. Oils seal this natural oil and keep your skin hydrated. While this property of Ayurvedic oils predominantly benefits Vata (dry) skin, certain types of fats can benefit Kapha (oily) skin.
Support the health of organs
Appropriate cooking oils help control blood cholesterol while reducing the risk of cardiovascular conditions. The most commonly recommended oils as per dosha type are
Sarshapa
Taila (mustard oil),
Narikela
Taila (coconut oil), or
Bhuchanaka
Taila (ground nut oil), which help aid digestion, and promote vitality.
Helps maintain the health of skin
Ayurvedic oils are usually applied as the last layer in the skincare routine when used on the body or the face. Therefore, they act as a barrier in protecting your skin against daily wear and tear, pollutants, and dirt.
Makes the hair appear lustrous and shiny
Pouring warm oil onto the scalp while massaging it increases moisture and shine. Depending on your dosha type, you can use
coconut oil to pacify the Pitta, olive or sesame oil for the Kapha, and light
almond oil for Vata.
Helps blur the look of clogged pores
Specific Ayurvedic oils such as jojoba, rosehip neem, and camellia are non-comedogenic. They nourish your skin, and help in maintaining your pores clean and unclogged with every use.
Anti-inflammatory in nature
Oils such as coconut, neem, and argon are anti-inflammatory. They are suitable for irritated skin due to the overuse of chemical products.
Some of the most common benefits of serums are:
Helps improve the appearance of fine lines
These days, serums come with active ingredients such as retinol that have proven to reduce the appearance of premature aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles.
Makes the hair look less frizzy and dry
Most serums tame unruly hair by creating a protective coating around the hair cuticle. This promotes hair growth and protects it from environmental damage. Hair serums help detangle the hair better while enhancing its texture.
Protects from free radicals
Specific serums that include vitamin C, vitamin E, ylang-ylang, or green tea extracts help prevent oxidative damage to the skin caused by direct exposure to UV rays. These can be found in both body and face serums. In addition to that, serums are light preparations, they are apt for those with fiery Pitta skins that are acne-prone, oily, and sensitive.
Helps brighten the look of dark circles
With rejuvenating and hydrating properties, under-eye serums boost collagen production while reducing the look of premature aging, such as the appearance of fine lines and dark circles.
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Let's look at some of the fundamental differences between oils and serums:
|
SERUM |
OIL |
|
Generally targets specific skin concerns such as premature aging, dryness, irritation |
Nourishes, protects and moisturizes the skin |
|
Light and thin in consistency |
Thick and emollient consistency |
|
Contains smaller molecules that allow them to absorb quickly into the skin |
Contains larger molecules that reach the outermost layer of the skin |
|
Used before a moisturizer in a skincare routine |
Used as the final step in a skincare routine |
The first step to choosing the right Ayurvedic oil or serum is understanding what kind of skin you have based on your doshic (energetic makeup) constitution - Kapha, Vata or Pitta. Just as your body reacts in a certain way based on your doshas, your skin has the same tendency.
Ayurveda recommends a holistic approach to understanding your skin's Gunas (qualities) to make the right choice. You may have a dual doshic skin type, like your Vikruti (state of imbalance) or Prakruti (constitution).
However, let's take a look at the three main doshic skin types:
|
TYPE OF SKIN |
PREDOMINANT DOSHA |
SEBUM ACTION |
PRAKRITI LAKSHANA |
VIKRUTI LAKSHANA |
|
Normal |
Kapha |
Normal |
Thick, Cold, Wet, Soft |
Rough, Pale, Blackish discoloration |
|
Oily |
Pitta |
Overactive |
Soft, Sensitive, Hot |
Oily, Yellowish |
|
Dry |
Vata |
Low |
Harsh, Dry, Cold |
Loose, Cracked Surface |
Table constituted as per a study.
Kapha Profile
Kapha dominant skin is typically thick with large pores, oily, and cool to the touch. It tends to show blackheads, cystic acne, and congestion and develops deep wrinkles over time owing to imbalance. Kapha-dominant hair is wavy, thick, lustrous, and oily.
It can be balanced by using serums that help maintain the skin's natural sebum while keeping over-secretion in check. Warming, stimulating, and cleansing aromas work best for this skin type.
Products or formulations that contain the following ingredients can help improve the look of Kapha Skin
Turmeric Oil
Tumeric is
Rusksh (dry) and
Ushna (hot) in nature and can help soothe the appearance of oily, acne-prone Kapha skin. It contains a bioactive component 'curcumin' making it anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant. It is considered a remarkable remedy for healing the skin.
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Amlaki Serum
Amlaki or Indian gooseberry contains antioxidant, immunomodulatory, and antiaging properties, which can potentially benefit blemish-prone Kapha skin. This serum can also help balance the skin by controlling sebum production.
Brahmi Oil
Brahmi oil contains Asiatic acid, an active component that can help support collagen synthesis on the scalp while providing nourishment. It also has the potential to aid blood circulation while relieving anxiety and stress owing to its aroma.
Pitta Profile
Typically, Pitta skin is soft, oily, and pale to medium in complexion. It is reactive, sensitive, and gets oily in the T-zone. Medium-thick in nature, it is prone to various flare-ups ranging from acne vulgaris, to acne rosacea, and even cold sores. Pitta-dominant hair is straight, thin, soft, and prone to premature greying.
Pitta skin types need cooling, balanced, and soothing serums or oils.
Serums or oils that work for Kapha Skin
Ylang Ylang Serum
Since Pitta skin is prone to redness, it needs gentle and mild products to keep it from flaring. Ylang Ylang is a healing powerhouse that helps regulate sebum production while controlling acne due to its anti-fungal properties. It is anti-inflammatory and helps removes oxidative stress.
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Lavender Oil
As a perennial evergreen plant, lavender is a lightweight skin-calming essential oil. Due to its antibacterial components, it reduces acne and inflammation. Rich in antioxidants, it also contains phytochemicals that help reverse early signs of aging while balancing the Pitta.
Coconut Oil
Nourishing and nurturing in nature, coconut oil, when applied judiciously to the hair, provides a cooling effect on Pitta dominant hair types. It contains essential fatty acids that deeply nourish the scalp.
Vata Profile
Vata skin is dry and rough. It is usually flaky and a bit darker in complexion. This skin type has tiny pores and is prone to dark circles, fine lines, and wrinkles. Easily dehydrated, Vata skin is delicate and susceptible to excessive dryness, flakiness, and eczema. Vata-dominant hair is usually dry, unruly, and tends to be frizzy.
Vata skin types need earthy, sweet, and warming Ayurvedic oils and serums.
Serums or oils that work for Vata Skin
Citrus or Neroli Serum
Essential oils or serums that contain citrusy flavors such as neroli or orange. These ingredients can help absorb Vitamin C into the skin while helping blur the signs of aging and premature wrinkles.
Rosehip Oil
Vata skin types have aggravated skin barriers. This skin type needs thick oils that do not leave any greasy residue. Rosehip oil has an antioxidant-rich profile that lightens scars, hydrates the skin, and helps collagen production for plumper-looking radiant skin.
Rosary Pea Oil
Gunja or rosary pea oil can rejuvenate hair follicles and help reduce the dryness of the scalp. It contains essential antioxidants that promote healthy hair growth.
So whether your skin needs a youthful glow or your hair is thirsty for hydration, Ayurvedic oils and serums can answer several skin and hair woes. Remember to choose the right oil or serum based on your doshas.
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